The Art of Hand Screen Printing: A Step-by-Step Guide to Artisanal Fabric Printing

In a B2B context, the choice between digital and manual often comes down to the "feel" of the final product. Manual printing allows the artisan to adjust the pressure of the squeegee based on the specific GSM (Grams per Square Meter) of the fabric. For instance, when working with a fabric like our Screen Print Cotton Khadi, the printer knows exactly how much force is needed to ensure the ink penetrates the hand-spun yarns without bleeding through.

Every masterpiece begins with a vision. In artisanal fabric printing, the design phase is critical because each color in a pattern requires its own separate screen.

The Art of the Repeat

Unlike a single canvas painting, fabric printing requires a "repeat" pattern. Our designers work closely with artisans to ensure that the motifs whether they are traditional paisleys or modern abstracts align perfectly across the length of the fabric. For example, the Paisley Brown Black Screenprinted Cotton Khadi Fabric requires meticulous planning to ensure the intricate curves of the paisley flow seamlessly.

Color Separation

Once the design is finalized, it is separated into individual color layers. If a design has five colors, five different screens must be prepared. This is where the complexity of the hand screen printing process truly begins, as each screen must be registered (aligned) with mathematical precision to avoid overlapping or gaps.

This is the "magic" moment where the design appears on the screen.

1. The Film Positive: A transparent film with the design printed in opaque black is placed against the emulsion-coated screen.
2. UV Exposure: The screen is exposed to a strong UV light source. The light hardens the emulsion where the film is clear. Where the design is black, the light is blocked and the emulsion remains soft.
3. The Washout: After exposure, the screen is sprayed with water. The soft, unexposed emulsion washes away, leaving behind a perfect stencil of the design on the mesh.

Now, the actual screen printing begins. This requires two artisans working in tandem on either side of the wide table.

Mixing the Pigments

Colors are mixed by hand to match the designer's palette. Because handwoven fabrics have natural variations in yarn thickness, the ink consistency must be adjusted. A slightly thicker ink might be used for an Abstract Brown Black Screenprinted Cotton Khadi Fabric to ensure the dark tones remain bold against the natural khadi base.

The Squeegee Pull

The screen is placed on the fabric. Ink is poured at one end. Using a rubber-bladed squeegee, the artisans pull the ink across the screen with firm, even pressure. This forces the ink through the open areas of the mesh and onto the fabric.

Pro Tip: The angle of the squeegee (usually 45 to 60 degrees) and the speed of the pull determine the ink's depth. A slower pull deposits more ink, which is often necessary for the highly absorbent fibers of khadi cotton.

Even for experienced artisans, the hand screen printing process presents challenges. Here are the most common pitfalls:

1. Bleeding: If the ink is too thin or the squeegee pressure is too high, the ink can bleed beyond the design edges.
2. Misregistration: If the fabric isn't pinned correctly or the screen isn't seated against the stops, the colors won't align. This is particularly noticeable in multi-colored prints like our Rose Brown Blue Screenprinted Cotton Khadi Fabric.
3. Ink Drying in the Screen: Since manual printing takes time, water-based inks can dry and clog the mesh. Artisans must keep the mesh "flooded" with ink between pulls.
4. Ghosting: This occurs when a faint image of a previous print appears on the next section, usually due to improper cleaning of the screen underside.