Raw Silk vs. Mulberry Silk: A Technical Comparison for Textile Designers
For the modern textile designer, the choice of fiber is never just about aesthetics; it is a technical decision that dictates the drape, durability and narrative of a collection. Within the luxury segment, the terms "raw silk" and "mulberry silk" are frequently used, yet often misunderstood. Many designers conflate "raw" with "wild" or assume that mulberry silk cannot be "raw."
In reality, the distinction lies in the processing, specifically the presence or absence of sericin, the natural protein gum that coats the silk fiber. While mulberry silk represents the gold standard of fiber origin, raw silk represents a specific state of that fiber, characterized by a unique tactile "crunch" and a duller luster that appeals to brands seeking an organic, artisanal aesthetic.
This guide provides a deep technical dive into the differences between these two states of silk. Whether you are developing a structured bridal line or a fluid resort-wear collection, understanding the raw silk characteristics versus the refined finish of degummed mulberry silk is essential for making informed sourcing decisions that align with sustainable manufacturing values.
Understanding the Fundamentals: What is Raw Silk?
To understand raw silk, one must first understand the anatomy of a silk cocoon. When a silkworm spins its cocoon, it produces two strands of fibroin (the structural protein) held together by sericin (the gummy protein). In the production of standard mulberry silk, this sericin is usually removed through a process called "degumming" to reveal the soft, shiny fiber beneath.
Raw silk is silk that has not been degummed, or has only been partially degummed. Because the sericin remains on the fiber, the resulting fabric possesses a distinctively different hand-feel. It is often referred to as "silk in the gum."
Technical Characteristics of Raw Silk:
- Texture: It has a "nubby" or slightly abrasive surface. This is the primary silk texture difference designers notice.
- Luster: Unlike the high-sheen "liquid" look of processed silk, raw silk has a muted, matte appearance.
- Weight: The presence of sericin adds weight to the fiber, making raw silk fabrics feel more substantial.
- Odor: Raw silk can sometimes retain a faint, organic scent due to the natural proteins.
At Anuprerna, we emphasize the preservation of these natural characteristics in our handwoven collections, as they highlight the Mulberry Silk Fiber in its most authentic form.
most asked questions
Is raw silk more sustainable than refined mulberry silk?
arrow_drop_downTechnically, raw silk can be considered more sustainable in terms of processing because it requires less water and fewer chemicals (soap/alkali) since the degumming stage is skipped or minimized. However, the sustainability of any silk depends on the farming practices of the mulberry trees and the ethical treatment of the weavers. At Anuprerna, we ensure both stages meet high ethical standards.
Why does raw silk feel "scratchy" compared to other silks?
arrow_drop_downThe "scratchy" or "crisp" feel is due to the sericin (silk gum) still coating the fibers. This is a natural raw silk characteristic. While it may feel less soft against the skin initially, it softens over time with wear and washing, while still maintaining its unique structural body.
Can I use raw silk for digital printing?
arrow_drop_downWhile possible, raw silk is not the ideal substrate for high-definition digital printing due to its uneven surface and the presence of sericin, which can affect dye uptake. For intricate prints, a degummed mulberry silk or a smooth silk-cotton blend is recommended to ensure the design remains crisp and vibrant.
How do I care for raw silk garments?
arrow_drop_downRaw silk should ideally be dry cleaned to preserve the sericin and the fabric's structure. If hand-washed, use a pH-neutral detergent and cool water. Avoid wringing the fabric, as this can break the stiffened fibers. Always iron on the reverse side while the fabric is slightly damp.
What is the price difference between raw silk and mulberry silk?
arrow_drop_downGenerally, raw silk yarn is slightly cheaper than fully processed, degummed silk yarn because it involves fewer processing steps. However, high-quality, hand-loomed raw silk can be more expensive than mass-produced powerloom mulberry silk due to the labor-intensive nature of the weaving and the quality of the base fiber used.
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